Located on the banks of the muddy Mississippi River, Natchez is an anomaly. Two years older than their little sister, New Orleans, the city has a rich heritage influenced by the French, Spanish, English and African communities. Known as “The Little Easy,” the former residents built their city for a perpetual party. Today the residents are more subdued but still know how to have a good time. I visited during the yearly Natchez Fall Pilgrimage, a three-weekend period when several privately owned historic homes are open to the public. With over 1000 structures and districts on the National Historic Register and 13 properties designated as National Landmarks, the wide variety of architecture and history provide a fascinating combination.
The Natchez Fall Pilgrimage
Begin your stay in Natchez with the Open Air Tour, a one hour guided driving tour of the city historic district. The tour starts at 640 South Canal Street where longtime resident and tour owner, Sally, gave an overview of the town beginning with the arrival of the Natchez Indians and ending with the present day. Sally shares a lively mix of history, local legends and quirky tidbits of the town. A good overview of Natchez, this tour will give a starting point to help pinpoint areas of interest.
The Slave Experience
Natchez was a prosperous, booming town in the antebellum area, known for the “city houses” of wealthy Northern cotton planters, most of whom were Union sympathizers. This did not stop them from purchasing slaves for their plantations across the river in Louisiana. Soon “The Forks of the Road,” located on the corner of St. Catherine’s Street, became the second largest slave market in the US. Today, the African American heritage is being preserved by people such as Gregory and Deborah Cosey, who own the Concord Quarters Bed and Breakfast.
This completely restored home dates back to 1820 when it was originally built as one of two building to house the enslaved families of Concord plantation. All that is left of the plantation today is a small outbuilding and one brick building. When visiting be sure to ask Mrs. Cosey to show you the room of her favorite things, including a clock that once belonged to the original owners of the plantation and a lovely painting of a mulatto woman dedicated to one of the original enslaved people of Concord.
Afterward take one of the Miss Lou Heritage Tours, presented by Jeremy Houston. While there are several options to chose from, The Heritage Church experience is a five-stop riding tour covering five African-American churches prominent in the Civil Rights movement. Along the way, you’ll hear stories of courage as the citizens fought against oppression and injustice, as well as tributes to Hiram R. Revels, the first African American senator from Mississippi, and the Reverend William J, Morrissey, a prominent Civil Rights Activist. You’ll also see the former home of Booker T. Washington and learn about William Johnson, a free man of color whose journals chronicle the history of Natchez in the antebellum South.
The former home of Booker T. Washington.
Historic Homes
The Natchez Fall Pilgrimage of homes is divided into several categories, allowing visitors a chance to see all of the homes on tour over the course of a weekend. Some of the homes are located in downtown Natchez, while some are a short drive from the city limits. All are worth the visit. One of the tour homes is Sweet Auburn, completed in 1833. It was the former home of Dr. John Wesley Monette, who is renowned for his role in helping prevent yellow fever. By keeping patients in quarantine, he was able to prevent many deaths. The home has been restored to its original grandeur and is filled with period furnishings. Two outbuildings, Dr. Monette’s library and medical office, along with the family cemetery are on display as well.
“If you can only see one home in Natchez, choose this one” This was an oft-repeated statement during our visit. Longwood, the home of Haller Nut, this masterpiece is the largest octagonal house in the United States. Designed to be a 6 story showplace, guests who plan to see abundance and excess will be surprised. Only the ground floor of this mansion is complete. Designed by famed architect Samuel Sloan, most of the outside was completed before construction was halted when the Civil War broke out in 1861. Mr. Nutt died early in the war, leaving his widow, Julia, struggling to maintain the mansion. The basement became the main living quarters. Walking up the unfinished staircase, visitors are greeted by a bare canvas; unfinished floors and windows abound on the first floor, and doors are hollow. The upper floors are unsafe, leading off into nothing. This home, owned by the Pilgrimage Garden Club, is open daily for tours.
No trip to the South is complete without a garden tour. “These gardens have been 224 years in the making,” says Dr. Fred Emmerick, owner of The Gardens. A lovely estate built in 1796 and inhabited by the same family since 1881, The Gardens is nestled amid acres of fruit trees and flower gardens. A lovely pond with serene views beckons visitors to have a closer look, while a bayou that adjoins the property displays the natural habitat. The Emmericks are knowledgeable, happy to answer any gardening questions and share the history of the property. The tour ends with a tasty collection of Mrs. Emmerick’s homemade hors-d’oeuvres. If you are lucky enough to tour the inside of the home, you’ll find period furnishings and objets d’art.
Fine Dining
For those wanting an authentic antebellum dining experience, the 1800’s dining, held on Friday nights during the Fall Pilgrimage, at Choctaw Hall. This circa 1836 mansion is a luxuriously appointed bed and breakfast owned by David Garner and Lee Glover. Decorated in period antiques, many passed down from the owner’s grandfather, Mr. Garner will charm you with stories of his relatives. Before you enjoy the delicious meal prepared by the owners, you can tour the mansion which features over 7000 pieces of Jacob Petit Porcelain. Mr. Garner’s grandfather’s china and silver decorate the table in the main dining room. His theory was “if it doesn’t take two men to carry it into the house it is not worth having,” and it shows in the opulent table décor. It’s an experience that seamlessly blends the past and present to create Southern hospitality at its finest.
Desert lovers will not want to miss a visit to Sunnyside Bed and Breakfast. Originally built as the home of Methodist Minister, William Watkins, Sunnyside is now a charming bed and breakfast owned by Colleen Wilkins. This mansion, while filled with antiques, has been beautifully decorated with new and old objects to suit Ms. Wilkins taste. The result is a comfortable home filled with books and items “which help keep me focused,” Ms. Wilkins explains.
The home has endured its share of tragic tales of lost love over the years, including the story of Mr. Watkin’s daughter, Harriet, who was betrayed by the Union officer who reported her father for treason. Today, you’ll find no trace of lingering sadness as you sit in Ms. Wilkins spacious parlor and snack on delicacies such as her homemade Strawberry Cake with Whipped Cream Frosting, Brownies, or Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Praline Topping. Finish these offerings with a cup of Irish coffee or an aperitif of liqueur served in antique cups and glasses. You’ll leave feeling sated and relaxed.
Our exploration of the Natchez Fall Pilgrimage was all too brief. I can’t wait to return for further adventures. Have you visited Natchez, Mississippi for the Natchez Fall Pilgrimage? It’s the perfect destination for a history lover, a romantic retreat, or just to take in some of the local dining and nightlife.
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I adore seeing historic homes – especially in a location that is different from where I live. I’m in the north, so I would have been swooning over all these houses! Oh, and those desserts are making me drool!
Although I’m not big into historical sites, the Natchez Fall Pilgrimage looks like a lot of fun and a great experience.
THat looks like a beautiful destination. My husband is a history buff and would love to make a trip here one day!
We’ve never visited Natchez before. But it seems to be a nice place ful of history. A place that needs to be visited!
I love historic house like those you have featured in this post. It reminds me of the time we explored Williamsburgh Virginia.
Beautiful photos of a beautiful place! That looks like it was such an amazing experience. We don’t travel much, but I might be able to convince my husband with these photos haha
We drove through Natchez earlier this year on the way to New Orleans. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to stop and see this beautiful city. I would love to stop in Natchez next time we go to NOLA. We’ll have to stop next time!
I did this tour in the 80s! I love those homes and would love to do it again. I love Longwood, my favorite!
I am going to give this a look. We are in the south on vacation now and looking for historic sites to visit.
This seems like an interesting place to visit. I love going on tours like this.
All of those historical homes are beautiful! I love visiting new places and this looks like a great place to explore.
Lots of places I would enjoy visiting from the House to the Steamboat. I think I should pack my suitcase and head out as I need some time just to find myself.
This looks like such a great experience and something that my family would love. The food looks amazing too.
This looks like an interesting location to visit. I love your photos and how beautiful the buildings are. I bet it was even more interesting to see in-person.
I’ve never been to this place nor have I heard of it, but boy it looks like it would be an awesome place to go. I love to explore history and the closer you can get to actually touching the past the more fun it is for me. I hope I can get here at some point because it looks like it would be fun.
I had never heard about Natchez but it has so many great old houses and they are so well restored. I love a nice old home and if I get down there would love to tour the town.
Since my hubby and I love old home tours, we will have to put this town on our list. Thanks for sharing. Love those antebellum homes.
All of these places look beautiful. Love seeing history come alive and would enjoy visiting every single one of these places.
I love these photos. History is the best, so I know my family would enjoy checking out all of these places. We especially like learning more about the Civil War.