St. Francisville, Louisiana, a tiny town with a big history, lives up to its motto, “A little bit of heaven here on earth.” Located 30 miles from Baton Rouge, time moves at an unhurried pace here. The relaxed atmosphere and small-town charm provide a respite from the hustle and bustle of the daily grind, making it the perfect place for a weekend getaway.
Thanks to the American Queen and the West Feliciana Tourism Board for hosting me. All opinions are my own.
The History of St. Francisville
West Feliciana Parish, the home of St. Francisville, has a past that reads like a thriller. Surviving through French, Spanish, British, and American rule, the parish abounds with colorful characters, like the Kemper Brothers. They once took revenge on one of their enemies by chopping off his ears, pickling them, and displaying them in their tavern as a warning to others.
Later, another settlement, Bayou Sara, unflattering known by the French as Baiouc a la Chaudepisse
-or Bayou Gonorrhea-sprang up along the banks of the Mississippi River. Once the largest port town along the Mississippi, it has been destroyed by floods and eroded by time until nothing remains.
Settlement began in St. Francisville in the 1770s. Due to the frequent flooding of Bayou Sara, merchants began relocating their businesses in St. Francisville and soon a thriving town was born. Town founder, John H. Johnson, began selling the first lots in 1807.
What is There to do in St. Francisville?
For a town once described as “two miles long and two yards wide,” you’ll find a surprising number of activities. There are six plantation homes open to the public for tours, one of which, Oakley, was where John Audubon worked for four months. His love of nature drawings flourished in St. Francisville. Over 80 of his bird drawings were created in West Feliciana. Other highlights include Angora Prison, used as a model for prison reform, a historic downtown district, the Cat Island National Wildlife Refuge, and the Afton Villa Gardens.
Myrtles Plantation– Often referred to as “one of the most haunted houses in America,” the Myrtles sits regally on a slight rise, shaded by live oak trees. Its somewhat murky past dates back to its construction in 1796 and is chillingly described in a daily history tour. For visitors who would like to delve deeper into the haunted aspects, an Evening Mystery tour is offered on Friday and Saturday evenings.
The ghostly presence of an enslaved girl named Chloe, who is said to have poisoned the mistress of the plantation and two of her children, is rumored to make her presence known. More than one visitor has complained of a missing earring-a sure sign Chloe has come to call.
Today, the Myrtles is a charming Bed & Breakfast sprawling across 20 acres. Visitors can stay in one of the 18 available rooms- 6 inside the home, 6 garden rooms located in the courtyard, and 6 cottages. Included in the price are breakfast and a daily mystery tour. Guests can also enjoy lunch or dinner in the newly renovated restaurant, 1796, with seating for 98 and a seasonally inspired menu. Based on Southern hearth style cooking, many of their dishes pass through the large open hearth located in the main dining room before arriving at the table.
Rosedown Plantation and Gardens– Once the home of Daniel and Martha Turnbull, this Greek Revival mansion was completed in 1835 as part of a 3455-acre plantation. It remained in the Turnbull family until 1956 when it was purchased by Catherine Underwood. She began painstaking renovation work to restore the home and formal gardens to their original state, searching through the Turnbill records for plans and descriptions.
Today, the home, 13 historic outbuildings, and 337 acres are maintained as a State Historic Site. The home retains many of the Turnbill’s furnishings and is surrounding by 28 acres of formal gardens. Daily tours of the home are offered hourly. The last tour begins at 4 pm.
The West Feliciana Historical Society Museum– The perfect place to begin your stay in St. Francisville, the museum is located in an old hardware store dating back to 1896. Exhibits show the history of the town-including its brief 74-day stint as capital of the West Florida Republic before being annexed into the United States. After a walkthrough of the museum, pick up a map for a self-guided historic district walking tour.
The tour showcases 29 sites, most of them located on Ferdinand and Royal Streets, featuring historic homes, churches, and cemeteries. All of the downtown buildings are on the National Historic Register and over 70% of them are residential.
Some of the highlights include the Romanesque Bank Building, now the home of Grandmother’s Buttons. This shop, filled with jewelry and décor made with antique buttons, is designed around the original bank safe and the bank vault. Grace Episcopal Church, dating back to 1927, is the second oldest Episcopal church in Louisiana. Rebuilt between 1858-1860, this gothic style building features stunning stained glass windows.
If you are feeling thirsty, stop by Birdman Coffee and Books. A locally owned and operated business, you’ll find coffee drinks, expresso, fresh homemade baked goods, and local art. There’s a cozy vibe in this building, the owners are welcoming, and the drinks are delicious.
Things to Know Before You Go:
*If you are visiting with the American Queen, Hop-on Hop-off buses run every 15-20 minutes. Stops include Royal Street, Old Market Hall, Ferdinand Street Shopping and Town Hall, Commerce Street Shopping, Sage Hall Shop & Post Office, Audubon Market, West Feliciana Historical Society Museum, and Grace Episcopal Church.
*An optional premium tour-Redemption and Rehabilitation at Angola Prison-is also offered to American Queen passengers.
*The Myrtles Plantation is located at 7747 US Highway 61, St. Francisville, Louisiana. Tours are available to the general public for a fee. Friday and Saturday night Mystery Tours fill quickly. It is recommended you make reservations in advance.
*Rosedown Plantation and Gardens is located at 12501 Highway 10, St. Francisville, Louisiana. Admission is charged.
*The West Feliciana Museum is located at 11757 Ferdinand St., St. Francisville, LA. Admission is free.
*Birdman Coffee & Books is located at 5687 Commerce Street.
I’ve never stayed in a Bed and Breakfast before. This sounds like a really amazing experience. I would love to check this place out.
It’s been years and years since I was in Louisiana, but this is bringing back such happy memories. Definitely need to explore more! I love the bed and breakfast option so you can unwind like you would at home, and soak in the city.
I been through Louisiana but never took the time to explore various stops/cities along the way. St Francisville looks like a perfect spot to tour with the family. I’ll have to add it to my growing bucket list. But I’m pretty sure my kids will veto it if they had an option. Haha
I have never been to Louisiana. I love Louisiana food, thinking to visit the state soon!
I haven’t been to that area but I love Louisiana. it’s such a beautiful state. so much to see and do.
You covered it all! I love your tips to plan a day here. I am going to have to add this location to my travel bucket list for future years when kids are grown.
I love Louisiana, but I’ve never visited St. Francisville. It looks lovely, and I’m intrigued by the haunted houses!
Looks like such a beautiful place. I love the historical buildings!
St. Francisville, sounds and looks like it is nestled in a fairytale book. I’d love to visit one day and take the family.
What a cute town. I love the feel on small towns like Francisville, usually so warm and welcoming.
What a gorgeous spot! I’d love to get here one day. You’d get so many stunning photos.
Staying at a bed and breakfast in Franciville sounds like a great way to start a vacation. I have not been to Louisiana except New orleans and it seems like there is so much to see.
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